Berlin to Belgrade–surviving an attack
Berlin
The Good
Across the board, Darcy was allowed everywhere. I can’t recall anything we wanted to do that we didn’t do because of her.
At Charlottenburg Palace, we were questioned at the entrance. After showing her service dog letter, there were no further issues. They added a note to my ticket indicating a service dog. Inside, a few staff members in different exhibition rooms were curious about her presence, but once they saw the ticket, they let us continue without interruption. We were able to enjoy the full interior without problems.
At the Reichstag Building, we were also questioned at entry. After showing the letter, we were allowed in without further issues.
We visited both Französischer Dom and St. Marienkirche Berlin. In both locations, Darcy was not questioned at all. No documentation was requested, and we were able to move freely, including interior spaces with artwork and exhibition-style areas.
The Big Bus Berlin Hop-On Hop-Off Tour was fully pet friendly, which made that entire day straightforward.
At Sphere Restaurant Berlin TV Tower, I emailed ahead of time and received confirmation. Since it was both Darcy’s and Nathaniel’s birthday, I wanted no friction. At the entrance, security questioned it, but after showing the email and her papers, we were allowed in. We were asked again at coat check, but after that, everything was smooth.
At a nearby café before dinner, when they found out it was her birthday, they brought her a cup of whipped cream to celebrate. That moment stood out.
We also arranged for a mobile vet to come directly to the hotel to issue Darcy’s EU pet passport. They arrived on time, administered her rabies vaccine, and provided the passport on the spot without any complications. It was one of the easiest parts of the entire process.
Leaving Berlin with Scandinavian Airlines was the easiest airline experience so far. They allow you to add a service dog directly to your booking, without the back-and-forth emails required by other airlines. I reached out before departure and received a simple response within 24 hours: bring the papers to the airport. At check-in, staff reviewed everything quickly and were very accommodating.
The flight itself was smooth. Darcy effectively had her own seat since the row wasn’t fully booked. We had a short connection in Copenhagen, about 40 minutes due to a delay, and still made it through passport control and onto the next flight without issues.
The Friction
At Topography of Terror, the initial response at the entrance was “no.” When I explained she was a service dog, the staff member still said no, but it was clear there was a language barrier. We were directed to the service desk, where I showed her documentation. After that, there were no issues and we were allowed in.
At the TV Tower restaurant, there were multiple checkpoints where documentation had to be shown again. It wasn’t denial, but it required repeating the process.
The Ugly
Nothing in Berlin reached the level of outright refusal or confrontation.
There were moments of hesitation or confusion, but once documentation was presented, access was granted.
Takeaway
Just like Italy, this is a place I would certainly visit again.
Berlin felt structured and predictable when traveling with a service dog. There may be initial hesitation, often due to language or unfamiliarity, but documentation consistently resolved the situation. Overall, it was manageable, consistent, and accommodating enough to move through the city without having to change plans.
Stay tuned for more!
Bosnia (Sarajevo) — The Good / The Friction / The Ugly / Takeaway
The Good
There were two good days during the stay.
Both happened outside Sarajevo, after we rented a car.
Good day 1 was at Underground Labyrinth Ravne.
They welcomed Darcy without hesitation and allowed her to enter the tunnels as long as I carried her. There was no resistance, no questioning, and no issue. She was treated as what she is, a trained service animal. The difference in attitude compared to Sarajevo was immediate.
That same day, we were also able to eat at RESTAURANT #1 (yes, that is the name of the restaurant 
), where we were allowed inside, treated normally, and received genuinely good service.
Good day 2 was in Mostar.
We explored Stari Most and stayed in the outdoor areas without any issues. No one complained, and no one questioned Darcy’s presence.
Separately, the veterinary care stood out.
The team at 4Pet Veterinary Clinic stepped in when the situation became critical. They were responsive, followed up even in the middle of the night, and ultimately saved Darcy’s life. They also went above and beyond by coordinating transportation, contacting a taxi company to ensure they understood they were transporting an injured dog to Belgrade, and following up after the transfer and surgery.
The Friction
There is no inconsistency. Sarajevo is not service-dog-friendly.
This was clear from the first night.
After arriving on April 11, tired and hungry, we attempted to eat at Pearl.
We were denied entry solely because of Darcy, even after clearly explaining she is a trained service animal.
At that location, I spoke directly with the manager, Regan. When I asked for his last name for documentation purposes, he refused to provide it.
We left Pearl and went to Central immediately after. At the entrance, a staff member yelled “NO” before I could even explain anything. There was no conversation, no attempt to understand, and no opportunity to clarify that Darcy is a trained service animal. We were turned away immediately.
Restaurants remained the biggest issue throughout the stay. Even outdoor seating did not guarantee access.
Only one place near the apartment consistently allowed us to eat:
- Majstor za pivo
We ended up eating there approximately five times during our stay, simply because it was the only reliable option. Everything else was either unpredictable or a flat refusal.
Transportation made everything worse:
- No app availability
- Taxis frequently refused service
- The bus system was not usable from the airport area
We had to rent a car just to function.
Even then, at Avis, the contract required the dog to remain in a box, which shows a complete misunderstanding of service animals.
Even when trying to plan ahead, the answer was still no.
For example, I contacted Avaz Twist Tower in advance and received a formal denial stating that animals were not permitted due to “safety and sanitary policies,” including a service dog.
The Ugly
On April 18 at approximately 3:15 PM, one week after arriving in Sarajevo, the trip ended.
While on Trebević Mountain, crossing the street to go to Pino Nature Hotel, in a populated area with people around, we were attacked by a pack of three stray dogs.
This was not a remote location.
Darcy intervened and protected us. She took the attack and suffered severe injuries.
I ran down the mountain to find help and encountered two police officers. They did not speak English. After using a translation device, they told me there was nothing they could do.
No report. No follow-up. No action.
A veterinarian later confirmed that this type of incident is not uncommon.
Medical Response and Outcome
Care began at:
- Veterinarska stanica Ketti Sarajevo
They attempted to send me home with a list of surgeons to call. This was not an option given the situation.
I refused and insisted they contact clinics directly, as most places did not understand English over the phone and this was an emergency.
They located 4Pet Veterinary Clinic. Although closed, the surgeon returned within minutes. I drove there immediately.
The surgery lasted approximately 4 hours.
They stabilized her and saved her life.
However, due to the severity of the injuries and delay in care, complications developed. One of the major wounds experienced significant blood loss and later became necrotic.
Sarajevo does not have accessible 24-hour emergency veterinary infrastructure for this level of trauma.
We left Bosnia on April 20 and returned to Belgrade for continued treatment.
Current status:
- 3 surgeries completed
- 2 more scheduled
- Recovery expected to take at least a month
Pain management during the initial phase did not match the severity of the injuries. This appears to reflect either local veterinary practice standards or decisions made at 4Pet Veterinary Clinic during the acute phase.
Takeaway
Sarajevo is not a viable destination for travel with a service dog.
This is not about inconvenience. It is a combination of:
- consistent access denial
- lack of understanding of service animals
- transportation barriers
- and unmanaged safety risks
The attack reflects a broader lack of control over stray animals, creating a level of unpredictability that cannot be mitigated through planning.
The result was a trip that ended early, requiring relocation to another country for emergency medical care.
Belgrade — The Place That Saved Darcy
The Good
Belgrade was never supposed to happen.
After the dog attack in Sarajevo on April 18, 2026, our carefully planned itinerary fell apart. We missed Vienna. We missed Tivat. Flights and reservations had to be changed, and some airlines refused reimbursement, resulting in financial losses that we simply had to absorb.
None of that mattered.
The only thing that mattered was Darcy.
The team at 4Pet Veterinary Clinic in Sarajevo recognized that Darcy needed a level of care that was not available locally. Sarajevo does not have accessible 24-hour veterinary hospitalization for severe trauma cases. Rather than leaving us to navigate the situation alone, they coordinated directly with IVA Vet in Belgrade, transferred medical information, arranged an appointment for April 20 at 3:00 p.m., and even helped arrange transportation.
When we arrived in Belgrade, IVA Vet was already expecting us.
That seamless transfer of care made an enormous difference.
After evaluating Darcy, the team admitted her for hospitalization. She remained hospitalized for approximately two weeks under continuous veterinary supervision.
The staff at IVA Vet were exceptional.
They communicated clearly, answered questions, provided updates, and treated Darcy as more than just another patient. Throughout the hospitalization, I traveled daily to visit her and brought grilled chicken to encourage eating and support her recovery.
Watching her slowly improve became the focus of every day.
One unexpected positive was Belgrade’s free public transportation system. The buses became part of my daily routine as I traveled back and forth to the hospital. They were reliable, convenient, and easy to use during a period when everything else felt uncertain.
When Darcy was finally discharged, her treatment continued.
For approximately one additional week, we returned daily for antibiotic injections and monitoring. After that, visits transitioned to twice-weekly wound care and follow-up treatment.
By the time we left Belgrade on May 21, Darcy was healing, gaining strength, and finally moving in the right direction.
The Friction
Belgrade was not a vacation.
For most of the month, life revolved around veterinary appointments, wound care, medications, laboratory work, and recovery.
There was constant uncertainty regarding healing, tissue viability, infection risk, and whether additional surgeries would be required.
The financial impact was significant.
Emergency transportation, unexpected lodging changes, missed reservations, veterinary expenses, and non-refundable travel arrangements created costs that were never part of the original budget.
Emotionally, the experience was exhausting.
Every day seemed to bring new questions and new concerns. Progress often felt slow, and recovery was measured in tiny victories that most people would never notice.
The Ugly
The hardest part was leaving Darcy at the hospital.
For two weeks, I visited daily, but at the end of each visit I had to leave her behind and trust that she would continue improving.
There were moments when the future felt very uncertain.
The attack had already resulted in multiple surgeries, and additional procedures remained possible. Recovery was measured in weeks and months rather than days.
Even now, some effects remain.
Before the attack, Darcy was extremely confident around other dogs.
Since the attack, she has become noticeably more cautious and anxious when unfamiliar dogs approach. She is more vigilant, more protective of her space, and generally less trusting than she was before.
The physical wounds healed.
Some emotional wounds are still healing.
Takeaway
Belgrade will always be different from every other city we visited.
Most travelers remember a city for its attractions, museums, restaurants, or landmarks.
I remember Belgrade because it helped save my dog.
Looking back, I do not view Sarajevo and Belgrade as separate stories.
The team at 4Pet Veterinary Clinic in Sarajevo saved Darcy’s life. They stabilized her, performed emergency surgery, recognized the limitations of local resources, coordinated her transfer, and continued to follow her progress even after we left Bosnia.
The team at IVA Vet in Belgrade took over from there. They provided the hospitalization, monitoring, surgeries, wound care, and weeks of treatment that allowed her to recover.
Sarajevo gave Darcy a chance to survive.
Belgrade gave her a chance to heal.
For that, I will always be grateful to both teams.
Last Updated Mon June 15, 2026